hanae mori
Exquisite Fall 1974 Hanae Mori Metallic Gold Brocade 3/4 Sleeve Coat w Pops of Turqoise & Red
I Have a Question
This is a phenomenal Hanae Mori coat. An example using a brocade in the same feel is held in the Met Museum's permanent collection and I believe this is from that same collection. Mori was the first woman of Japanese descent to have presented on both the Paris and New York runways and the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official Haute Couture house to La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Her work is exceptional. I have only ever seen a couple of her brocade pieces for sale outside of seeing one in a museum. When I find pieces like this one that is so stunningly beautiful I am very happy.
The fabric on this coat is amazing. A gold thread woven through an ivory and black black background creates that stunning design that you see. The pattern on the coat is divided into hexagon medallions that are done with either the ivory or black backing. Then each design within that is a striking flower or cluster of flowers. The flowers are done in pale pinks, white, turquoise and a bright coral red. The final effect of all that colour with the gold thread mixed in is absolutely beautiful to see. The cut is classic and the fabric has a bit of weight to it. It is not so heavy that it is unwieldy but it has enough of a weight that once on the body the shape that you see is held perfectly. Each sleeve is cut to just below the elbow and they are cut straight and wide. You can flip the end of the sleeves over and when you do that you see that band of black silk satin. We followed it with the sleeves flipped, but you could also wear them straight and then the pattern just continues to the end of the sleeve. I love that.the black band perfectly pick up the black silk satin covered buttons down the front to perfectly tie all the elements together. The collar is simple and frames the neck. The shoulders are soft, and have a slight sloping cut. From there the coat flares out to a slight A-line and we took a photo of it laying flat so you can see the shape. It is just spectacular and the simplicity of the cut only further highlights the drama of that rich bold fabric. It is very couture in feel and one of the best vintage coats I have ever seen. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a pale yellow silk and closes at the front with black silk covered buttons. I see some foxing and marks to the inner lining. Tag a vintage Hanae Mori 8. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The colours and metallic feel of it are even better in person.
Sleeves: approx 17" with the cuffs flipped up and 19 if they are not flipped. 14" around the upper arm.
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4675
Reference Photo: Fall 1974/75 Hanae Mori Brocade Coat in The MET Collection.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
hanae mori
Dreamy c. 1969 Hanae Mori Couture Printed Silk Chiffon Jumpsuit w Floor Length Angel Sleeves
I Have a Question
Hanae was the first woman of Japanese descent to have presented on the Paris and New York runways and the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official Haute Couture house to La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Her work is exceptional. Hanae Mori excelled at these beautiful prints that combined nature and elements of her homeland. This is a stunning jumpsuit and when I find pieces like this one that is such a stunningly beautify example of her work I am very happy. I feel that pieces like this are among the very best representations of her work. We added a photo of a similar piece with the same cut but in a jersey and different print that gives you an idea of how this is on the body.
This is everything you look for in a piece by Hanae Mori. The entire piece has one of her custom designed prints screened onto a feather light silk chiffon. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. It has all been printed with a really outstanding huge floral design and the colours are fantastic. That combination of turquoise and pink cannot be beat. The jumpsuit has a shallow V neck at both the back and front for just a little bit of skin to show there. The top skims over you and has one of the big pink flowers at the front. The waist is generous in cut the jumpsuit comes with its original silk ribbon belt. This belt is made from multiple pieces of silk piece together in rows and then the ends are all left as individual ribbons. When you tie this around your waist it helps to add to the drama of the overall set . The pants fall from under that and are cut to be very very wide and full so you get this incredible movement when you move. To make them opaque enough to wear each pant leg has an inner layer of silk twill with that same print on that inner layer. As with the best of Hanae's pieces the effect of having the same print on the top layer and the inner layer gives the design added dimension and depth as they float over each other. The added width of the pant also let them float and move at your slightest movement. The sleeves on this piece are spectacular. They are attached around the upper two thirds of the arm hole and each is made from two panels of fabric that float all the way down the length of the jumpsuit to just a little past the hem. They are open on each side so move independently from each other. Because each panel is a single layer of that bias cut silk chiffon this means that they catch the slightest bit of air and move and float dramatically around you. The beauty and drama that this creates is astonishing. The floral print that covers the jumpsuit is one of her best. The movement and beauty of this piece is extraordinary. This is a piece that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing it and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. It is a stunning example of her work and beautifully made. I love it. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the bodice in a white silk and a printed silk twill for the pants. The sleeves are unlined. It zips to close at the back. The belt ties into place. All of the edges have been hand rolled and it is hand finished through out. Tagged a vintage 10. It appears to have been worn very little if at all
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Pants: 38.5" from waist to hem
Inseam: 25" from the inner seam to hem
Gusset: 32" from back of neck to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4451
Reference Photos: Hanae Mori Ad in Vogue US, October 1, 1969.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.